As you may know, the legalization of medical and recreational marijuana in several states has allowed many consumers to get used to buying cannabis from a pharmacy. Even more fascinating, however, is the possibility that legalization has created for adults and medical patients to grow cannabis within their own four walls.
While the laws, restrictions, and regulations are different for each state, almost every state allows some form of legalized marijuana to be grown at home to some extent. While it is perfectly legal to do so, some people do not exercise their right to grow cannabis because they feel it is too difficult, expensive, or time-consuming.
However, don't let the lack of ambition of others discourage you. When done right, growing cannabis at home can be fun, easy, and inexpensive! We believe everyone should have access to their own clean cannabis.
Still, today it is more important than ever that we keep this essential right with the masses and keep the movement firmly in the hands of the people before the capitalists of Big Pharm, Big Tobacco or Wall Street get their hands on our new emerging industry. Therefore, Zenpype continues to disseminate and disseminate the necessary information so that people like you can grow your own cannabis at home, be it for medicinal purposes or for recreational use. The plant belongs to all of us and we remain the movement. But for all these beautiful ideas there are still many questions. Many occasional smokers are now wondering how exactly to set up a home garden quickly and easily. And because marijuana smokers tend to enjoy a year-round supply that is not readily available in the supermarket, questions about how to grow at home often lean towards the Indoor Garden variety.
Fortunately, growing cannabis is no more difficult than growing tomatoes. In fact, growing cannabis can be pretty straightforward, and the answer to almost all home growing concerns can be summed up in three little words: keep it simple.
Keep it simple
The first question every budding indoor grower asks is what type of system to use. The system type encompasses many aspects of horticulture, from the medium type to container sizes to feeding and irrigation programs. Let's start with the most basic aspect of cultivation: growing medium.
To keep things simple we need look no further than Mother Nature herself. In nature, plants mostly grow naturally from the ground. Growing plants indoors doesn't mean we have to deviate from the nature plan. In fact, the horticultural industry has excellent peat and sphagnum based soils that are specifically tailored for indoor gardens. This bottomless media looks and feels like outdoor soil and is extremely easy to use.
Coming from well-known brand names like Pro-Mix or Sunshine Mix, these media often have soil textures created by the peat or sphagnum base, but also contain additional ingredients mixed in to aid in moisture retention and air permeability. Additional elements in these mixes can include wood chips, perlite, and vermiculate, as well as traces of basic nutrients to get young plants going properly.
The main benefit of using these types of bottomless mixes as a growing medium is that they are very forgiving to new growers and provide excellent buffering for root systems to prevent nutrient shock from being overfed. They also hold water back very well and are perfect for smaller gardens where watering plants by hand is usually preferred. In addition, soilless mixed media can also be used in conjunction with a number of different automated water systems with no problem.
Irrigation & feeding
The easiest way to water small gardens is to do it manually. Watering plants by hand is also a great way to get to know your plants, your garden, and your surroundings. Watering plants can also help new farmers identify and identify mineral deficiencies and pest problems.
However, some growers prefer to automate their irrigation. Main reasons can be that the garden is too narrow to get in or find your way around, or that the garden is too big to be done by hand, or that they are not close enough to the garden to be even by hand To provide water. In these cases the hydroponics industry offers many solutions, but not all are easy to use.
Perhaps the most popular and one of the simplest automated irrigation systems is a simple top-feed irrigation system that uses basic pole emitters to water individual plant containers. These systems generally carry water (or a nutrient-enriched solution) from the reservoir to the garden area via a flexible hose. As soon as the main line reaches the garden, the hose is vacuumed with thin spaghetti lines to add water to each plant location. These lines of spaghetti can easily be attached to drip or spray emitters that sit on plastic rods stuck in the growing medium.
Many growers prefer to use the spray emitters over the drip emitters, as they offer a more even saturation of the growth medium and thus ensure better absorption rates without creating puddles and sinkholes in the medium. It's also worth noting that these systems are great for low impact feeding regiments, where growers use the minimum nutrients required when feeding gardens. This is because when using spaghetti pipes and spray emitters, excess mineral build-up can build up and the pipes and emitters can become clogged if too much fertilizer is dissolved in the reservoir.
Instead, most new breeders and even master breeders prefer a minimalist approach to feeding, watering the gardens only once a day for a few minutes and rotating the feeding regiment. With a simple three-day rotation, growers can feed the gardens with a nutrient solution on the first day, then empty the reservoir and top up with fresh, distilled water on the second day for clean watering, and give the plants a day off on the third day of this basic watering and irrigation Feeding system ensures the plants get their essential minerals on the first day, then a good clean flush to prevent buildup on the second day, and a good drying time on the third day so air and oxygen can penetrate the medium and get to the roots that rely heavily on oxygen to transport nutrients into the plant.
Notes on nutrients
Plants react to an insufficient supply of essential minerals with characteristic deficiency symptoms. These symptoms can range from discoloration of the leaves to physical deformities and complete wilting of the plant.
Conversely, plants react in a similar way to an excess of nutrients. However, these conditions can take longer to be noticed and are misleading as overfeeding plants can result in invisible nutrient fixation at the root level. When this happens, salts build up from excess nutrients and block mineral absorption by the roots, causing the plant to starve. The result is a plant that looks malnourished, which is true, but the cause isn't a lack of nutrients. It is actually caused by overfeeding.
So what is the lesson that needs to be learned? First of all, it is obvious that feeding programs require careful attention as there is a delicate balance between too much and too little. Second, it is clearly better to underfeed than to overfeed gardens. Remember that you can always increase the nutrient dose if there is a lack of minerals. However, it is much more difficult to alleviate the problems caused by overfeeding.
With this in mind, many new nutrient lines used in the grow rooms are tending to take a more minimalist approach when it comes to nutrient programs. Not only is this aimed at newbies as there are less catastrophic problems with overfeeding, but it also creates a simple feeding regiment that is easy to understand and implement.
Growers who use nutrient programs that contain more than two or three parts are generally experienced growers who know how to mix multiple parts and carefully read their reservoirs to ensure that their nutrient solutions have the correct pH and EC levels (electrical conductivity). Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned veteran, maintaining low N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) ratios is always your best bet for superior quality. It is the commercial, large format growers who generally like to pump up nutritional values to increase yields. However, this slight increase in weight usually corresponds to a greater decrease in quality.
The last important component to rapid growth is determining what type of garden lighting is needed for your garden. There are so many options available these days that it can be daunting and a huge dislike for aspiring growers. Don't let this be the case for you! Lighting can be done cheaply and fairly easily.
While plants will grow under almost any light, there are still some options that are better than others. While inexpensive lights such as fluorescent lamps offer an excellent spectrum, run cool and consume little electricity, these lamps are best suited for young seedlings or clones or for plants that only hang around in a vegetative state.
For high quality results and happy, healthy gardens, using HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamps is the best choice for both new and experienced growers. There are several types of HID bulbs, but for indoor horticulture there are two predominant types: MH (metal halide) bulbs, which are generally used during the vegetative growth stage, and HPS (high pressure sodium) bulbs, which are used in the Generally used during growth is the flowering phase.
If you are a small grower who only grows a few plants or a closet and only prefer one type of lamp, HPS is the choice as it emits a much stronger amount of light on the red / orange wavelengths of the spectrum. These color frequencies carry the highest amount of light energy (in the form of photons) and thus provide your plants with more energy for photosynthesis.
Remember, however, that when your garden is transitioning from the vegetative stage to the flowering cycle, it is not difficult to buy both an MH and HPS lightbulb and simply swap out one lightbulb for the other. The only real consideration here is that it obviously costs a little more for two lightbulbs, and you need to make sure the ballast for the lamp is designed to work with both types of lightbulbs (usually two-lightbulb ballasts only have one switch that you flip when you flip You switch from MH to HPS or vice versa).
Smaller wardrobes only need a 125-watt or 250-watt lightbulb to get the job done and keep heat and costs down. A large garden in a small bedroom may need two to four lights to get adequate garden coverage, and these lights will likely be 400 to 600 watts of power. Larger 1000 watt lamps are the least efficient in terms of power consumption and are generally reserved for large format commercial operations.
Remember, no matter the situation, growing cannabis should never be stressful. Stay cool, keep it simple and affordable, and most importantly, enjoy your time in the garden and your time outside of it with Your Own Highness!